The Chescold is a Eutectic type fridge, as opposed to the Engel's, which is a compressor type. You are right about the high power draw on 12 volts, approximately 10 amps as compared to 2 amps for an Engel's. If you are driving, your vehicle alternator will easily keep the fridge running. If stopping for say an hour or less, you should be OK leaving it on 12 volts. But, this depends on how large your vehicle battery is. I have used a Chescold on my diesel Land Cruiser and could run for 2-3 hours before my battery had trouble starting the engine.

The Chescold works well, but it is best if food is put in there cold rather than the fridge having to cool it. The Chescold will work on almost any angle when on 12/240 volt, but needs to be level when on gas.

All fridges have to work harder in hotter weather and you may find the Chescold is barely acceptable in extreme weather. As you are only doing the bottom end of Australia, you should be fine. A compressor fridge like the Engel's has more cooling power, but can only be run on 12/240v. The low power draw of the Engel's means that most vehicles can run the fridge overnight and still have enough power to start the vehicle the next day. But I would always recommend fitting dual batteries if doing this. Chescold type fridges are very popular as they can be run on gas, leaving the vehicle battery untouched.

Kindest Regards
Mark Peacock

Western Australia
Thursday, 26 October 2000 1:52 pm

If you are going to be camping away from power in one spot for extended times, then you will probably need your fridge to run on gas. This means that you will need the Eutetic type fridge. If only stopping overnight, away from 240V power, then either type will do fine.

I have used a Chescold, Engel's and an Auto-fridge and there are definite advantages and disadvantages.

The Chescold did not freeze very fast, but it was a good fridge. However, when on 12V it uses nearly 10 amps per hour and flattened my second battery every night. It had the definite advantage of being able to use gas, but as you shouldn't use it in your vehicle, that meant taking it out of the vehicle every night.

The Engels is also an excellent fridge or freezer and cools down quicker than the Chescold. It only used about 2.5 amps when on 12V so it never flatten my battery, even after 24 hours. But be careful about setting the thermostat, as I thought by putting it to maximum it would cool quicker. All it did was freeze my beers within a few hours (from warm - very impressed).

The Autofridge was a big disappointment. When I used it on a trip up North (around 35 - 40 celsius) it could not cool down drinks to a cold temperature, even when set to Freeze. It did perform OK when down South (around 15 - 20 celsius), but that was in cool weather.

In summary, the Chescold and Engels both performed well, with the Engels having the advantage of cooling items down much quicker.The Autofridge is about half the price of an Engels, so I guess you get what you pay for.

WA
12 June 1999

I have an auto diff lock fitted to the front diff of my part-time 4WD 80 series cruiser. I swear by it as it improves the vehicles off-road ability almost as much as going from 2wd to 4wd. You can feel the diff lock is there, best described as a 30% increase in steering effort when "breaking" from straight ahead (ie. unlocking the diff). Once "unlocked" during the turn, there is no real noticeable effect. On-road effect is the non-existant as being a part-time 4WD, the front diff is not in use on-road.

A friend had an Auto locker in the rear of his 80 series (part-time 4WD model) for about 4 weeks. That was as long as he could stand it on on-road driving. While it significantly improved his off-road ability (almost as good in 2wd as 4wd previously was), the on-road characteristics were impossible to live with. Whenever he turned a corner, the inside wheel screeched as it wouldn’t unlock unless virtually no power was applied. When driving around a roundabout, if he changed gear, it would leap sideways about a metre as he was compensating in the steering for the "straight ahead" effect and pushing the clutch in took that away. Even turning in a carpark would evoke screeching from a rear wheel and have bystanders looking for the "hoon". However, none of this is noticeable at all off-road and only improved 4WD ability is present. 

Another words, while I swear by an auto locker in the front (of a part time 4WD) I DO NOT recommend them for rear fitment. I would only recommend an ARB air locker for the rear. However, I believe that a front diff lock is more effective than a rear fitment in virtually all circumstances. But you cannot fit an auto locker to the front diff of a permanent 4WD, only part-time 4WD’s like your 60 series. Any GXL 80 series ( or other permanent 4WD) can only have ARB lockers in the front and that brings in another problem.

It is difficult to steer anything but straight ahead with an air locker in the front diff on. This presents problems for steep rocky hill climbs where you want your front lock on, but find it very difficult to steer. This is why ARB recommend a rear fitting before a front fitting whereas auto lockers recommend a front fitting first due to its better 4WD ability.

I believe the ideal setup (for a part-time 4WD) is an auto locker in the front and an ARB in the rear. However I haven’t been anywhere where I needed a rear locker to get me through hence I haven’t fitted one. 3 ½ wheels driving (LSD rear) is more than enough to either get me through or hopelessly bogged. About the only time you need twin difflocks is when towing off-road, then you need all the help you can get.

When considering cost, a lockright autolocker is significantly cheaper than a Detroit autolocker, which in turn is cheaper than an ARB airlocker (unless you already have a compressor).

Australia
6 May 1999

You are asking a very difficult question as all have advantages over the others, depending on their usage. However I will try and  answer your question.

I believe the Land Cruiser (non turbo 4.2L) has significantly more off-road ability than the Jackeroo and marginally more than the 2.8L turbo Patrol. I own a 4.2L 80 series and a friend has the 2.8L turbo Patrol. He has marginally more top end performance while I have significantly more bottom end torque. The Patrol is marginally better on beach sand driving while the cruiser is better on hilly terrain where bottom end torque is required. The Patrol uses marginally less fuel, but it is very insignificant difference in the real world. Other factors such as size, clearance, wheel travel, etc... are very similar without getting a tape measure out. In virtually all our 4wdriving, both get through all the time, its just that one has a slight advantage over the other sometimes. I would prefer the Cruiser over the Patrol if you are towing, the heavier the load, the more in the Cruiser’s favour.

The new turbo diesel Jackeroo engine is perhaps the most sophisticated diesel around. It has unbelievable power for a diesel (It’s better than the 3.5L petrol Jackeroo). I haven’t driven the diesel but I have driven the new petrol and that has HEAPS of power compared to either the Cruiser or the Patrol. However it has an independent front end that restricts its off-road ability. It is also smaller than the other two, about the same length but significantly narrower.

In summary, the Cruiser and the Patrol are heavy duty 4WDrives that perform well on-road and excel off-road. There is marginal difference between their performance and I wouldn’t mind owning either. If you are towing, it probably tips the scales in favour of the Cruiser, but generally the Patrol is better value for money. The Jackeroo is a medium duty 4WD and while it performs quite well off-road, it will eventually stop while the other two keep going, especially when diagonally opposite wheel travel is required. But on the road, it is generally quieter, smoother and handles better. So it really boils down to what you need you vehicle to do.

Australia
4 April 1999

While I don't know the exact details of the 91 Ford Ranger, I am sure it would be far cheaper to just buy a 4wd.

To convert a vehicle to 4wd you need to install a transfer box, front diff and driveshaft. This then involves shortening the rear drive shaft to accommodate the transfer case and relocating the cross members. This is only the major items required and there would be a multitude of small items that would crop up (speedo cable, clutch cable, transfer lever into cab etc...) In short, unless you had the parts extremely cheap (read free)and a very friendly mechanic to assist - forget it.

A better idea would be to put a locking diff in the rear of your existing vehicle. A normal 4wd is really only a 2wd with one front and one rear wheel driving when the going gets slippery. By putting a locking diff in the rear you get both rear wheels driving (see our Difflocks article -  this explains all about difflocks)

This will not be quite as good as a 4wd, but will be significantly better than your existing 2wd, even if it already has a limited slip rear diff. The best bit about it all is the cost. While there are several types of locking diffs (air lockers and auto lockers) a lockright locker is around AUS$650. I think they only cost around US$300, but don't quote me on this.

This type of setup works well when towing a trailer as more weight is placed on the rear wheels, which helps give traction. It may not be as good as a 4wd, but at least you get to keep your beloved Ford and there is minimal cost while getting significantly better traction.

After 2Yrs, and 40,000 Km's, the clutch has gone again, and I have had to replace it. Again, the culprit was sand inside the bellhousing, burning out the clutch face. Holden tells me that it must be my driving style, but I disagree. Once maybe, but not twice. Has anyone else had this type of problem. Where can sand enter my bellhousing from. Any ideas to rectify the situation, would be greatly appreciated, otherwise I will have to sell the Jackeroo, as the clutch kits are becoming a touch expensive.

Sounds like you are having a bit of a problem with your clutch. I haven't heard of this problem with a Jackeroo before and it doesn't seem to be a common problem. However, most Jackaroos spend a considerable time on the road and it may not show up that often.

The only way sand can get into the bellhousing is either through the breather at the top of the housing or from the drain hole (often plugged) in the base (or from any missing covers where the clutch lever enters the bell housing). Some vehicles have a small hole on the top of the bell housing while others have a proper breather (capped). I am not sure what the Jackeroo has. If it is an open vent, then sand can easily enter here. If it is capped, then it would be relatively difficult to enter here. The drain hole in the base is usually plugged, but even if it isn't, this hole is relatively small and not typical to enter here. Any missing covers are a very likely source where sand may enter.

If all the possible entry sources are properly capped and/or plugged, then unfortunately it may be your driving style. You would be in the best position to judge this after checking the bell housing (especially the top breather, this is very difficult to see).

I am not surprised at Holden's response regardless of who is to blame. A good friend of mine owned a 1991 4 cyl Jackeroo and 4 times the rear main oil seal went. They also said it was his driving style. He was particularly fond of hill climbs and I hesitate to guess that on steep slopes the oil seal was either flooded (uphill) or dry (downhill). Now his driving style may have helped the failure, but surely a 4WD should be designed to cope with non-level terrain!

Either way, he had no decent support from Holden (he got to know them well after 4 rear oil seals). He finally solved the problem by buying an 80 series Toyota Land Cruiser.

The solution of hosing out the bellhousing with water is one of the most irresponsible acts one could perform on a clutch. This area is supposed to be kept dry as possible. Water would only serve to wash sand into areas like the spigot bearing, pressure plate etc... Perhaps they meant compressed air, but even this would not remove all the sand and may blow it further in.

I'm sorry I haven't got a solution for this problem, but it is rather unusual. Have any other readers out there heard of this problem with Jackeroo's ?

Australia
11/12/98

If you only have one set of chains, put them on the front wheels as you will have steering control as well as driving traction. Ultimately, two sets of chains will improve your traction, just as 4WD is better than 2WD.

There are two main types of tyre chains, the ladder pattern and the diamond pattern. The ladder pattern gives better forward traction, but at the expense of side slip. The diamond pattern gives a good combination of forward traction and side slip control. Generally, the diamond pattern is the first choice for snow driving and the ladder pattern for mud driving.

I believe the best all rounder is the diamond pattern as the loss of forward traction is minimal compared to the improvement in side slip control. 

USA
7/11/98

One typical way some people try to improve performance is to increase fuel pressure, which in turn increase fuel flow and hence makes the mixture richer. This works on "simple" fuel injection control, but more advanced units run O2 sensors and compensate. Other types of OBD's actually communicate between the engine and the auto transmission to reduce "bump" between changes by retarding the timing during shifts. Any modification to the engine can actually cause transmission problems and vice versa. In short, unless you know exactly what the OBD is monitoring and controlling you are best to leave it alone.

Even many "expert" mechanics think they can get around the electronic black box, but as engine computers become more sophisticated it is becoming increasingly difficult. Most manufacturers are reluctant to provide complete details about their systems as they are proprietary information. Even simple modifications like running a non-standard air filter can upset the air flow sensor and give false readings (although the more modern OBD's can easily handle this). In short, the application of computers to engines has restricted the ability of the backyard mechanic to modify his vehicle.

Also, what effect does dual rear wheels have on a 4WD pickup in mud or rocky terrain? We don't get much snow or ice down south.

Dual rear wheels on a 4X4 are normally good for most terrain types. The dual wheels act like wide wheels and improve your traction and flotation. This is normally an advantage, especially in sandy conditions. However in certain mud conditions where there is a soft top layer with a hard surface underneath, the wider tyres can "float" on the soft surface without getting to the underlying hard surface.

On the whole, dual rear tyres are going to be significantly more of an advantage than a disadvantage.

USA
4/11/98